A Journey You Can Eat: Llanes


Hi everyone!

As expected, we don’t just eat, but we also walk once in awhile…the next stop after the stupendous visit to the town of Colombres was Llanes. After a somewhat difficult stage, where we weren’t sure if we would ever reach the stop, we set foot in the coastal town.

As soon as we arrived at the hostel and settled in, we set out to find a table and chairs where we could recover some energy. So, we arrived in the old town of Llanes whose streets smell like cider and…cachopo! You can imagine what the menu will be like right?

Well, we were fortunate enough to get a good recommendation from our host who directed us to a restaurant called El Antojo. Unsurprisingly, when we arrived (around 3:00pm) all the tables were full and we had to wait, but since I think you’re starting to get to know us, you can imagine that we didn’t do it  while sitting on our hands.

On the bar, we saw a strange bottle that said “Roxmut, Vermut de sidra criado en barrica.” And, since we are also fans of vermouth, we each ordered one. It was very fresh and not too sweet. We were surprised by its similarity to conventional vermouths (aged in white or red wine barrels). What’s certain is that we liked it a lot. Although, we only noted the character that the cider should give it a little.


After the drink of vermouth that we used to quench our thirst, we were called to sit. Once the waitress explained things to us, we made a quick decision. Bonito del Cantábrico with garlic sauce to start, and later we were introduced to the world of the “cachopeo” as my brother Nacho calls it.

The bonito was delicious, fresh, and juicy (remember we’re in the middle of the coastal area of the bonito). The ajilimójili (garlic oil) was so magnificent that we couldn’t stop dipping bread in it. We ate so much bread that eventually the waitress gave us a look that said: “Look, the rest of the food is coming.”


Finally, those tender blankets of veal filled with melty and creamy Vidiago cheese, white asparagus, red pepper, and cured ham arrived. As we mentioned earlier, this is the original cachopo of the area, and the combination doesn’t leave any doubts as to why. It was so big that we could have brought it to the hostel to use it as a blanket, but we decided to destroy it there, without mercy.


Obviously, we had to wash down everything that we’ve talked about with a couple of bottles of sidrina (what they call cider here). In earlier posts we’ve referenced cider, in depth,  as a symbol of Asturias.

To end, a dessert from our youth: rice pudding with caramel in a style similar to creme bruleé.

The truth is, we left enchanted by the food, understanding that the place isn’t just a good place to eat, but that is shows great respect for products like veal and bonito in its dishes.

Pilgrims who like lighter food, don’t worry. Food that is a little more clean, but just a delicious is coming.

Greetings from somewhere between Santander and Santiago?

Photos: Ana Fernández

Translation: Carolyn Montagnolo


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Juan Cabanzón

Apasionado del Camino de Santiago y de la cocina, estudié en la Basque Culinary Center donde desarrollé "mi pequeña obsesión” por la búsqueda de los mejores productos y las personas que están tras ellos. Ahora uno dos de mis pasiones para hacer llegar otro manera de ver el Camino a los demás.

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